t may have been rainy and gray in the city, but backstage at Diane von Furstenberg things were bright and cheery. Not only were the models and makeup artists upbeat (we chatted with model Shena about tattoos and got a smile from It-girl Tao Okamoto as she snacked on a wrap)—the makeup itself nearly lit up the room.
Inspired by Andy Warhol's 1974 silkscreens of the designer wearing lipsticks in colorful shades (Warhol seems to be a popular inspiration so far this fashion week), makeup artist James Kaliardos gave the models a shocking shade he described as "orchid-fuchsia." "We wanted to do something simple that would reflect Diane's image as well as the clothes from the collection," Kaliardos explained. "It's a great collection. I actually think this may be a turning point in her career, returning to the classic-Diane of years ago."
He created the vivid hue and matte texture by lining and filling in the lips with M.A.C. Pro Chromagraphic Pencil in Process Magenta, then layering M.A.C. Pigment in Magenta Madness on top with a tapered brush to create an intensely bright pink that almost verged on neon. The rest of the face was left simple so that the lips were the main focus of the look—just a little foundation and glowy highlights courtesy of M.A.C.'s Cream Color Base in Pearl.
On the hair side, Orlando Pita created a simple style without having to look too far for inspiration. "At one of the fittings we saw some of the girls with their hair twisted into a low bun—it looked soft and effortless and we decided to use it for the show since it really reflected the casualness of the clothes," Pita's assistant Brian Buenaventura explained to Allure. (Before we could finish our interview, Orlando himself—the man in demand—had to bold to another show to get started on the hair.)
To make the chignon look as if the models had done it themselves, Pita prepped dry hair with Orlando Pita + T3 Plump before blow-drying, then pulled it back into a ponytail using only his fingers and secured it with a bungee elastic. The ponytail was then twisted and wrapped into a wide bun and secured with U-shaped hair pins. To give the style a slightly undone look, he let the ends of the bun slip out and flyaways go wild. He even went back through the hair with a teasing brush sprayed with hair spray, running it through the crown to give it a slightly lived-in vibe.
More from Allure:
Backstage Beauty: Quirky Artistry at the Derek Lam Spring 2011 Show
Backstage Beauty: Punk Hair at the Altuzarra Spring 2011 Show
Backstage Beauty: Smoking Hot Eyes at Diane von Furstenberg